2014 – 38: Tribute to Dan

We were all deeply saddened by the passing of Dan DeChristopher last weekend.  What follows is a look back at his time here in India as Managing Director during 2012.

It all started in late October, 2011, when Dan and I independently learned about the opportunities in India.  I was initially reluctant, but after Dan’s call, the blinders came off.  Moving to Asia was much more comfortable in tandem with someone I trusted and respected.

He was in Chicago and I was in New Jersey at the time.  As we began exchanging emails, I realized the subject line “India” would tip our hands if people saw our computer screens, so we came up with the code name “Project Mango” (mango is the official fruit of India).

Over the course of ten days, the discussions accelerated and the decisions were made – Project Mango was a “GO, GO, GO,” and then later announced to all employees in mid-November, 2011.

Dan and Ellen touched down in India in January 2012.  I followed two weeks later.

An Ohio boy by birth, Dan was raised with good ol’ fashioned mid-west values that passed through into his adult life.  This gentle giant carried an impeccable character which reached to the core of his DNA.

He instantly connected with people and knew everyone by name.

He embraced the culture…

… and led by example (including participation in the office “Weight Loss Challenge”).

The outpouring of admiration and respect emanating from two continents is a testament to Dan’s character and outsized heart.

“Truly one of the good people on this planet.”

“An extremely positive person with a great zest for life.”

“Dan was one of the most charming personalities I have ever met and will always remain in memories of all who came across him.”

Dan was here such a short time but he made an incredibly positive, indelible impact on everyone he met.   I can’t begin to express how much we personally owe him.  The future course of our lives began nearly 3 years ago when Project Mango came to life.

Dan DeChristopher was a genuine “people person” – salt of the earth.  We miss you, Dan.

2014 – 37: Tirumala Temple

 

As tens-of-millions do each year, Greg and I headed to Tirupati to get a glimpse of Lord Venkateswara (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu).

 

Up at 5:45 am, we required assistance to dress in our dhotis.

 

The Tirumala Temple is on the 7^th hill surrounding the valley. This was a 30 minute drive to the top from this point.

 

The summit is surrounded with devotees who have donated their hair as a sign of respect.

 

Even the women contribute (Note: We can’t help but reflect on the extremes in religious traditions. Sikhs never cut their hair, and Hindus donate every inch during this homage.)

 

As cameras are not permitted inside, this and the next two photos come from the Internet. This is the most visited holy place in the world. With a continual Sanskrit chant repeating through loudspeakers, we moved barefoot through a lengthy queue to move inside the main temple (covered with gold). Along the way, people stroked the temple walls and rubbed their faces as if to absorb its spiritual energy.

Deep inside, we had a brief, 20 second glimpse of Lord Venkateswara (this is a replica). Also known as Lord Balaji, he is said to answer prayers and perform miracles. Pilgrims make voluntary donations with an estimated 40,000,000 INR per day (including gold) collected. That’s about $650,000 USD.

 

Upon exit, we sampled the complimentary Laddu, which is a mixture of flours, sugar, coconut and other ingredients, rolled into a ball and highly coveted.

 

With approximately 100,000 visitors per day, an elaborate queue system was devised to manage the crowds.

Typical waiting times range from 4 – 8 hours, and as much as two days during festive seasons (the devotion is clear — imagine this duration for a 20 second glimpse). With local assistance, we were able to secure VIP tickets which reduced our wait time to about 45 minutes.

 

Special thanks to Rajesh and Jayaram (pictured above). Also thanks to Vasanthi, Venkatesh and Praveen for all your kindness.

 

Then we enjoyed a traditional south-Indian breakfast including idly, sambar and vada.

 

On the ride down the hill, we witnessed hundreds of people on foot headed to the temple.

 

Back in Tirupati, we could see the big news of the day was Chinese President Xi Jinping’s visit to see Prime Minister Modi in Delhi. We can’t read Telugu, but Greg saw President Xi as he visited Greg’s school on Thursday.

 

A walk through Tirupati shows a diverse mix of devotees.

 

Religious homage is prevalent.

 

As this man naps…

 

… one can only imagine his enlightenment.

 

Switching gears… where are we now? Munich?

 

Paris perhaps?

 

No, the answer is Pondicherry (also known as Puducherry), a former French colony along the Bay of Bengal. In 1674, the French began exporting spices and importing Christianity.

 

The French influence remains to this day.

 

Sri Aurobindo Ashram is well known as a place for Integral Yoga and quiet meditation. Cameras were not allowed inside (providing yet another challenge for a blog dedicated to “Lots of photos – minimal text”) however we can report seeing many people in deep thought and reflection.

 

School kids took a break to pose with the Gandhi statue here along the Bay of Bengal. 

This 300 year old temple is dedicated to the deity Ganesha, remover of obstacles.  

 

What a perfect way to be greeted at a Ganesha Temple. The elephant was quite docile and eagerly posed for countless photos. Enjoy your week. ts

 

 

 

 

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2014 – 36: Amritsar and the Golden Temple

Continuing from last week’s blog in Amritsar, we also visited Jallianwala Bagh (garden) where a horrendous massacre took place in April, 1919.

After several days of riots and unrest in Punjab, the British rulers instituted martial law which prohibited assembly. However, the traditional festival of Baisakhi was celebrated April 13 which brought together more than 15,000 Sikhs, Muslims and Hindus who gathered here.

 

Fearing a conspiracy, the British viewed this as a terrorist act, sent in 50 troops and without warning, began firing at the unarmed crowd for ten minutes.

The Bagh was surrounded by walls and buildings, and with the narrow exits blocked by the British troops, anywhere from 370 to 1,000 people were killed with many more injured (actual numbers are disputed). Bullet holes remain to this day.

A young Udham Singh was injured while serving water at this event and vowed revenge.

21 years later he worked his way to London and assassinated Michael O’Dwyer, who was the British Governor of Punjab at the time (Singh had cut his hair to better blend in).

The Jallianwala Bagh massacre was a key impetus fueling Gandhi’s civil disobedience movement, and ultimate independence in 1947. (We are pictured here with our friend Patrick who we met during this trip).

Now onto life in Amritsar where 60% of the population is Sikh. Sikhism began in 1469 with Guru Nanak and evolved over the next 240 years through a total of ten gurus (teachers), focused on the principles of truthful living and equality for all. The tenth guru declared the Gurū Granth Sāhib (holy book) as the definitive spiritual source of Sikhism without necessity for further gurus in human form.

Over the years, Sikhs developed as warriors to protect themselves from invading moguls — who were forcing Muslim religion upon the inhabitants — coming from what is today Iran and Afghanistan.

Sikhs have 5 articles of faith which are to be worn at all times: uncut hair, a small wooden comb, a metal bracelet, an undergarment and a small dagger.

This is Harmandir Sahib – commonly known as The Golden Temple – or “Mecca for Sikhs.” Yes, it was actually described to us this way. Head coverings are required out of respect. We also had deposited our shoes at the entrance.  The temple is covered in 950 kilograms of gold (more than a ton).

Bathing in the holy water is a religious experience…

… without inhibitions or need for modesty.

The temple is open to all peoples and all religions. Volunteers feed 100,000 people per day with funding for food provided by donations.

This is the kitchen where huge vats of lentil soup and other vegetarian meals are prepared.

Thousands at a time arrive for dinner…

…which is served with a smooth and systematic process.

The metal plates are washed and stacked for the next round. Again, everything is completely managed by volunteers (thanks to Patrick for these dining photos).

Afterwards, many settled in for the night.

Later that evening, we witnessed the nightly ceremony which retires the Gurū Granth Sāhib (holy book). This carriage was decorated with garlands and gracefully moved through the crowd.

Frequent sounding of this horn announced the procession…

… leading to this resting place for the night. The reverse process takes place early each morning.

The next day, we opted to go local so I selected 5 meters of traditional saffron cloth (true Sikhs require 7 meters).

With one end in mouth, the wrapping process began.

Within a matter of minutes, all done.

Greg selected blue…

… and was delighted with his choice.

Now we blended in like locals.

Next was shoe shopping (we merely looked without purchasing).

Amritsar is loaded with history and vibrant energy. We will always remember the Punjabi pride and hospitality we experienced. Enjoy your week. ts

 

 

2014 – 35: Inches from Pakistan

This is the first of a two-part series from last weekend’s visit to Amritsar.  This installment comes from the Wagah border with Pakistan where a daily, sunset flag ceremony takes place on each side.

But first, you have to understand the deep-seated animosity between India and Pakistan dating back to partition in 1947.  Gandhi always envisioned one India after relinquishment of British rule, however a very vocal Muslim community, which found itself in the minority, did not want to be governed by non-Muslims. The result was partition and the creation of Pakistan.

The two countries have challenged each other ever since.  India and Pakistan have suffered through several wars and continue to exchange gun fire on a regular basis along the line of control in Kashmir.

The common man has no issues, however, it’s the governments who don’t see eye-to-eye.  No one sees a peaceful relationship – ever. 

Despite all this, the Wagah border shows a level of cooperation which boosts nationalism on both sides.  What first began as a simple ceremony in 1952 has evolved into a highly-choreographed, daily event.

Thousands of Indians are ready on this side…

…while the Pakistanis wait in anticipation just across the line.

Lucky patriots enthusiastically race to the border carrying the tricolor with pride.

Guards keep a watchful eye on the entire process.

The guard on the right appears concerned with this man in the dark shirt…

…but no worries… it’s just me.

 

A drummer launches into a steady back-beat that is amplified many times through huge speakers.

The border guards move into position.

Only the tallest of soldiers are selected for this task (note the clever pant design which optically accentuates the height).

 Then the gates are opened…

… and with a high kick…

… each guard in succession races straight toward the Pakistani border…

…where he makes bold gestures at his opponents (each side is trying to intimidate the other and prove him inferior).

The crowd cheers every moment with patriotic fever.  In Hindi, they chant:  “We bow our heads to mother India,” and, “Long live India!”

As the sun recedes, the flags are lowered and respectfully retired for the day.

Without any intrusions, the gates are closed to once again secure the border.

With the ceremony complete, we move to within inches of Pakistan.

The guards are celebrities.

Without a doubt, this is one of our all-time highlights of India.  The indelible spirit of nationalistic pride is forever with us.

Just two days later and on the other side of the planet, Kayla’s college classes began.  Here she is with her roommate who hails from Dalian, China (which is halfway between Beijing and North Korea).

With Kayla set, Lynda returned to Delhi this weekend with our newest family member.  Indie is an 11 week old Springer Spaniel.  She and Greg met for the first time here at the Delhi airport. 

She was quickly introduced to the neighborhood (take a look at the far left side of this photo).

Indie hasn’t realized yet that the back yard needs to be shared.

Hopefully, there’s room for everyone.

Next week, don’t miss part 2 of our Amritsar adventure with a visit to the Golden Temple.  Enjoy your week. ts