#21: Delhi byCycle, part 2

 

Picking up from last week on the Delhi bike tour, here we are in the middle of a very busy intersection, waiting for the rest of our group.

 

Once they caught up, merging with traffic was hair-raising…

 

…but then we went with the flow…

 

…along with the pack mules.

 

Sleeping can take place anywhere.  On the sidewalk…

 

…or on the roof of this shop (note the two heads).

 

A haircut costs 30 Rupees (60 cents).  I’ve only seen men.  The women must cut hair for each other.  I don’t really know.

 

Here’s a delivery cycle of compressed natural gas, which is used for cooking. 

 

I have an identical tank for my stove.

 

I did not verify his claim of being licensed. I’ll take his word for it.

 

I still can’t get over all the wires and cables that crisscross every street.  I learned the Hindi phrase “Ram Bharose.”  Everything is disorganized, but due to God’s overview, it all works.

 

This man is in complete control of his fruit stand.

 

This is the local garbage “truck.”

 

Bicycles are used to deliver just about anything.

 

Note the wooden scaffolding around this building.

 

Here’s a close up.

 

Ladders are made of bamboo.

 

This man was in the street cutting steel rods… wearing sandals and no goggles.  Note the pedestrian traffic passing without concern.

 

This is the Hauz Khas area of Delhi, built in 1296 as a reservoir and eventual tomb for its founder.  This area is now known for shops and restaurants.

This is the scene at the front door of a restaurant I considered for a future visit.

 

Note that men can receive a 50% discount (depending on the immediate need).

 

Our bike tour ended with a traditional mutton breakfast served with naan (flat bread).  The meat had marinated overnight.  My definition of mutton is lamb, but here it means goat.  According to the NY Times, goat meat is the most widely consumed meat in the world.

 

Here was the scene upon exiting the restaurant.  I had a vegetarian dinner that evening.

 

The hustle and bustle of old Delhi leaves a lasting impression.  What is chaotic by western standards is daily life for this community.  Somehow, it all works.  

Happy 4^th of July to all Americans.  It’s a work day for us in India (August 15 is the equivalent here when freedom from British rule is celebrated).  Next weekend I’m off to the US to pick up my family for the move to India.  They are looking forward to joining the adventure.  ts

#20: Delhi byCycle, part 1

Here was the scene Friday morning in front of our New Jersey home. This 40’ container will spend the next three months navigating the Atlantic and Indian Oceans before hitting customs in Mumbai and then eventually our new home in Delhi. By late September, we should be off our air mattresses and back in our own beds again.

Here in Delhi, I was up at 5:00 am Saturday morning to reach the meeting point by 6:15 am for a bicycle tour. The goal of the early start is to beat the heat. Or more accurately, avoid the hottest part of the day. It’s still hot at 6:15 am.

Shop keepers are already setting up for the day…

…preparing food…

…while others are still resting.

This man is multi-tasking. He’s smoking, and “taking care of business,” a common scene.

We had a quick briefing which included the “cover up” rule. Old Delhi is mainly a Muslim area. The web site states: Please respect the local custom and dress modestly, especially for the ladies: no shorts and sexy shirts. These may be offensive.

Upon entering Old Delhi, the wires make the first impression. There are wires haphazardly strung everywhere.

The sights (and smells) provide a sensory overload.

This is the Gadodia Market, the largest spice market in Asia. Upon entering this area, we all started choking and sneezing.

Here’s why. These burlap sacks are filled with chili peppers. Just being in proximity caused an allergic reaction for us all.

This compound is a spice warehouse, where people also live.

Notice the cooking, laundry and sacks of spices in this photo.

We’re not violating the privacy of this man.  I’ve frequently seen men bathing in public — always in their underwear. The women are more discrete.

I could fill a book of photos featuring street-side barbers. They are everywhere.

If this delivery man makes one false move, his entire inventory is completely wiped out.

The ox is a commonly used beast of burden.

This one could use a drink.

This ox was painted for a celebration.

The Delhi byCycle web site promises a safe experience.

I guess if they had stated that we’ll be dodging a sea of pedestrians and weaving in and out of traffic that includes cars, trucks, buses, rickshaws, motorcycles, ox carts and mules – it wouldn’t be very good marketing.

This is Jama Mosque, the largest mosque in India.

Delhi is a true melting pot. People of all religions including Hindu, Muslim, Christian, Jain, Buddhist, Sikh and more are completely intertwined. The tolerance shown amongst these diverse peoples serves as a benchmark for the rest of the world. This is the embodiment of “all getting along.”

Staying open minded is the key to success in India. It’s not like the rest of the world, which creates the adventure. Look for part 2 of Delhi byCycle next week. ts

#19: Plant Chennai

With a 2 ½ hour flight, we traveled to Chennai this week, a port city on the southeast coast, and the capitol of the state of Tamil. Unlike Delhi which is hot and dry, Chennai is hot and humid. Think Miami in summer.

The south and north of India are substantially different. Tamil is the local language, which is seen on this pylon.

Chennai is home of BMW’s assembly plant for India.

Several hundred associates assemble the X1, X3, 3 Series, 5 Series and 7 Series here.

Fully painted body shells arrive from Munich, along with all the necessary parts, which are then assembled.

This is known as CKP production, Completely Knocked Down. Cars, such as the M3, which are imported are known as CBU, Completely Built Up.

The tax laws are designed to encourage local production. Virtually all major car brands have CKD assembly plants in India.

The tax on a CKD car assembled in India is 30% vs. 110% for an imported CBU.

The assembly line is manual. Vehicles are pushed to the next station once ready.

This is the “M” of BMW, the motor, our middle name and our heart and soul.

This is the “marriage” where the engine is mated with the body.

Once completed, all cars are run through a test track as a final quality check. The new F30 3 Series will soon be assembled here. It will launch later this summer in India.

We brought all our dealership F&I managers to Chennai for a business conference and training program.

We stayed at the Lemon Tree hotel where all things yellow and lemon-scented were integrated throughout. We all shared rooms. My roommate and I had twin beds. Others weren’t as fortunate.

It’s good to be back in Delhi again where it’s merely hot (and not humid).

Mobility here is not always by car. I’m very comfortable now branching out from my neighborhood. Sometimes I walk, and other times use a pedi-cycle.

I also use auto rickshaws (green and yellow). They operate like cabs, but there’s no meter. Always negotiate the fare upfront.

I’m also comfortable using “Beetles” (black rickshaws). They operate similar to a bus, except there is no set route, and no pre-determined start / stop points. Flag one down, hop on, and then tap the driver on the shoulder when you want to stop.

There seems to be no limit to seating capacity. Recently, the driver kept motioning for me to squeeze in. We eventually had 13 people on-board, some sitting on laps. I enjoy the authentic experience.

Many FS colleagues will recognize Anirudh. He moved to the US from Mumbai at age 26. After receiving his MBA, he began an FS internship at our Columbus office in 2002 which later turned into a full time job (he’s the father of the POD prioritization process). He left FS in late 2007 to pursue other career opportunities but came back into the FS fold when he moved to Delhi in early 2010 to head up our IT department. What he misses most about the US are the friendships, and a good Smith & Wollensky steak. His twin boy are now 8 months old.

In closing, here’s the family of goats that live behind my apartment complex. I’m reading a very good book called, “Nine Lives.”  Look for a future review.  Enjoy your week. ts

#18: Pooja for my new car

 

Here was the scene outside the front door of my apartment Friday morning.

 

This photo was taken a few minutes later on my way to work.  I counted 10 commuters on this tractor.  

 

The 2^nd MINI dealership in India opened this week, this one in Delhi.  A few weeks prior, a Pooja ceremony was held to bring good spirits.

 

It was standing room only for the press conference.

 

MINI received “rock star” attention.

 

This green machine is named “Louise.”  (Thelma is in Mumbai).

 

My new company car received Pooja this week (a worship ceremony).  For an auspicious start to major events or purchases, Pooja is required.  For example, the opening of a new business, or the purchase of a house or car. Here we are at a Hindu temple.

 

The Hindu priest went right to work under the hood.  Using a rose paste, he painted religious symbols, including Ohm to Lord Shiva, the first God.  Everyone comes to him.       

  

Rolly (pronounced ROLL e) keeps the mind clear and eliminates bad thoughts  It’s applied between the eyes to control all the spirits of the body. 

 

This prayer brings positive auspicious spirits.  There are also prayers to Ganesha – the remover of objects and negative spirits,  While performing Ohm, the priest rang a bell to awaken the bad spirits and chase them away.

 

Water from the Ganges river was sprinkled around the tires and across the entire car to keep it perfectly clean (earlier in the ceremony, I had washed my hands in Ganges water, which is holy).

 

I waved incense around the entire car to signify the end of the Pooja ceremony.

 

The Molly (MOLE e) string around the wrist shows commitment to God.

 

My new car is now ready for the roads of India.

 

The flowers make the Gods happy (and Amir, too).    

I enjoy embracing the culture.  It’s a thrill to be he here.  I’m off to Chennai on Monday.  Enjoy your week.  ts

#17: It’s just different

My family is back in the US again, finishing out the school year. They’ll move to India in July. Until then, we’re back to Skype (which is phenomenal).

Doctors in India work from rotating office space at hospitals (see building in the background). I’ve spent a lot of time here since my chronic on-again-off-again back pain flared up two weeks ago.

Payment is made in full prior to treatment (it’s up to the individual to seek reimbursement from the insurance company). My treatments are 400 Rupees each ($8 USD).

There are no chiropractors here. Indians use physical therapy. I have an entirely different set of stretching exercises from the US. It’s too soon to tell which method is better.

Patience is the key to success in India. Things work differently. Accept it and adapt.

This is my local drug store. 

Nothing is “over the counter.”  Even purchasing aspirin requires assistance from the Chemist (his assistant is pictured here).

Loose foil packs of pills are sorted alphabetically.

With the chaotic driving, I’m surprised I don’t see more of this.

This photo comes from the Ahmedabad airport men’s room. Are you curious?

Behind door #1…

…and here’s what you get behind door #2. Fans of the movie “Outsourced” will recall why the left hand is not used for eating.

I’d like to close by quoting my son Gregory from two weeks ago. My family had just arrived in Delhi for their visit.  We were leaving the airport grounds where the real India immediately smacks you in the face. Gregory whispered to me, “Daddy, I am so thankful for everything I have.”