#48: Vote for Photo of the Year

 

What a year.  Prior to moving to Delhi in February, everyone said, “You have to write a blog.”   Vaccinations and visa applications were foremost on my mind at the time, along with thousands of other details. Creating a blog was nowhere on my radar.

Upon arrival, I found myself wide awake all night due to an early bout of “Delhi Belly” and the 10 ½ hour time difference, so with Bill Chobanian’s persistent voice ringing in my ears, I typed “blog” into Google and got started.

 

I thought I would update the blog once a month and perhaps 10 people would read it (if I were lucky).  To my surprise, the idea of “lots of photos – minimal text” caught on.  Nearly 300 people read the blog each week and many send very positive responses.  The most common sentiment is:  “I look forward to it each week.”  Thank you all.  It’s very motivating.

 

This tracking map shows that readers come from more than three dozen countries.  It’s no surprise the US, India and Germany are the top three, however astonishing to me are regular readers in places where I know no one, including Argentina, Laos and Romania. 

 

What follows are a collection of photos from the past 11 months which sparked questions, comments and / or amazement.  Please select your top five favorite photos and send me an email with your choices, or post your picks on the blog.  This is your chance to vote for “Photo of the Year.”  Here are the nominees in chronological order.

 

#1:  Chicken Delivery.  Fresh chicken is easy to find thanks to timely deliveries.

 

#2:  Manual Labor.  Every construction site I’ve seen has women carrying bricks on their heads.  Some women additionally carry infants in slings around their necks.

 

#3:  Best Buddies.  Men hold hands in India.  They’re just good friends.  I doubt they’ve ever seen an episode of “GLEE.”

 

#4:  Toe Trimmer.  This butcher keeps both hands free by wielding a knife between his toes.

 

#5:  Nature Calls.  I see sights like this a dozen times a day just commuting to / from work.  It’s true what they say about men:  The world is our urinal.

 

#6:  Proud Cow.  I have so many cow pictures, it was difficult to choose just one.  Cows roam the streets freely with impunity.

 

#7:  Electrical Art.  One reader thought this was modern art at a museum.  No, this is part of the electrical grid.

 

#8:  Holi Ambush.  Holi is the festival of colors.  These boys got me good!

 

#9:  Cooking Fuel.  I see so many women collecting branches for fuel, I’d think the supply would be exhausted, but it’s not.

 

#10:  Family Outing.  It’s rare to see only one person on a motorcycle. Two, three, or four people is common.  The most I’ve seen is five people on one cycle.

 

#11:  Mass Transit.  No seats, no problem. There’s always room for more.

 

#12:  Water Closet Options.  I’ve never had a choice before.

 

#13:  Skyping the Family.  Thank you Skype.  It helped bridge the 5-month gap while I was in India and my family was in New Jersey.

 

#14:  Egg Delivery.  One false move, and his inventory is completely wiped out.

 

#15:  Spotted Ox.  I’m not sure, but I think this ox wears his yellow spots as a badge of honor.

 

#16:  Old Delhi.  I’ll always remember the chaos of Old Delhi, and how diverse religions intermingle harmoniously.

 

#17:  Fruit Stand Man.  This man was in complete control of his fruit counter.

 

#18:  Sweet 16.  This photo was taken at Mt. Fuji in Hillburn, New York at Kayla’s 16^th birthday party.

 

#19:  Sachin.  The world’s most famous cricket player only needs one name.

 

#20:  Pooja for our New Home.  A Hindu priest made sure our new home was free of evil spirits.

 

#21:  Monsoon Commuter.  I will never again complain about my commute.

 

#22:  Taj Jumper.  Why not?

 

#23:  Traveling Monks.  Buddhist Monks use ATMs and share buckets of KFC just like the rest of us.

 

#24:  Langur Commuter.  This langur is headed home after an exhausting day of chasing monkeys.

 

#25:  Fridge Delivery.  I cannot confirm if this delivery was successful.

 

#26:  Wedding Click.  Marriage and family are central to India’s culture.  I attended four weddings this year from more than a dozen invitations.

 

#27:  Jaipur Elephant.  This is the best way to visit Amber Fort in Jaipur.

 

#28:  Snake Charmer.  This is NOT a Disney animatronic. This is the real deal.   

 

#29:  Kashmiri Foliage.  It was refreshing to find fall foliage in Kashmir.

 

#30:  Gam with Monk Boys.  The four boys Gam raised were a breeze compared to the energy exhibited by these young monks in training.

 

#31:  Kathmandu View.  Mt. Everest is just over the horizon.

 

#32:  Reincarnation?  The funeral services along the holy Bagmati River in Kathmandu had hundreds of spectators.  What did the camera see the naked eye didn’t?  This photo remains a mystery.

 

#33:  Spice Market.  This is why we always ask for “low spices” at restaurants.

 

#34:  Taj Grandma.  Move over Marilyn Monroe.   

 

There you have it.  34 nominees for “Photo of the Year.”  Please send me an email with your top 5 favorite photos, or post your picks on the blog. The winner will be announced in January.  Happy New Year!  ts

#47: Merry Christmas from Delhi

 

Welcome to the Christmas Blog special edition.  This being our first Christmas in India, we weren’t sure what to expect.  The spirit is here in the form of mall decorations…

 

… and Santa hats worn by restaurant staff. 

 

There was no charge and no line to visit Santa.

 

However, Greg wasn’t convinced.

 

This mall photo was taken two days before Christmas.  We owned the place.

 

This photo was taken on Christmas eve with nary a customer in sight. Christmas shopping was a breeze here compared to the US.  India’s busy shopping season was early November, just before Diwali.

 

There are no live Christmas trees available.  Artificial trees are hard to find, small and pricey at 5500 Rupees ($110 USD).

 

Santa starts his annual trek in Asia and moves west.  Christmas arrives here before the US, which was very exciting for Greg.

 

He wasted no time trying out his new X-Box game.

 

Delhi sits on the same latitude as Orlando, Florida, so at 17° C (63° F), a white Christmas is unrealistic. The climate is more conducive for roller-blading.

 

We enjoyed our first Christmas in India.  Santa Claus was able to find us and brought many great gifts.  We wish everyone a happy and joyous holiday.  Merry Christmas to all.  ts

#46: Goin’ to Goa

We took advantage of Kayla and Greg’s 3-week winter break and headed to Goa (remember, they started school in early August).

 

At the Delhi airport, we spotted Buddhist monks sharing a bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken.  They travel and eat lunch like everyone else (they gave permission for the photo).

 

Goa is the smallest of India’s 28 states.  It was ruled by the Portuguese for 450 years and only received independence in 1961 when Nehru threatened to invade and liberate. Portuguese is still spoken here and Christianity (Catholic) is the dominate religion.  It’s a true multi-cultural experience.

 

We saw many brightly painted buildings.

 

Giving directions is easy:  “We live in the purple house – you can’t miss it.”

 

Seeing Christmas trees and hearing Christmas music brought familiarity we don’t experience in Delhi.

Just after arrival, we attended a wedding reception for a BMW colleague from the local dealership. We were dressed for a traditional Indian wedding as we’d seen in the north – Kayla in saree and Greg in kurta pajama. 

 

However, this wedding was very similar to weddings as we know them in the US. The groom from Goa and the bride from the UK are both Catholic.  It was suits and ties for the men and cocktail dresses for the women. 

 

Much of the advice imparted during speeches to the newlyweds centered on the theme, “The wife is always right.”  Specific advice to the groom was: Always have the last words, and make sure they are, “Yes dear.”  It’s amazing to see how this sentiment universally transcends cultures worldwide.

 

Fireworks filled the sky overhead during the couple’s first dance.

 

The food was traditional Goan…

 

… with an endless choice.

 

Everyone treated us with incredible warmth and hospitality.  We felt as family.  We wish the happy couple all the best of luck as husband and wife.

 

Goa’s weather in December could not be more ideal.  Goa sits on the 15 degree north latitude, which is equal to Nicaragua in Central America.  Daytime temperatures were perfect at 33° C (91° F).

 

Lynda and Kayla opted for Henna tattoos.  At this point, the ink has just been applied and needs to dry before washing.

 

Here they are the next day.  The tattoos will remain for about a month.

 

We were pleasantly surprised to go swimming in mid-December.

 

We enjoyed the delightfully warm waters of the Arabian Sea.  Note: it was only 1 ½ years ago that Osama bin Laden was buried in this same sea just a few hundred kilometers north of here.

 

It was a wonderful trip.  We loved Goa and hope to return someday.

 

Back in Delhi, Santa paid a visit to the BMW office on Friday. The commercial elements of Christmas are widely recognized in India. The 25^th is a national holiday.  However, with Christians only comprising 2% of the country’s population, the religious aspects are not widely seen.

 

Despite all the mega hype and the blockbuster movie “2012” the world did NOT come to an end on the 21^st.  That’s good, because we celebrated Nana’s 79^th birthday on Friday.  Merry Christmas to all.  ts

#45: Grandmother’s perspective, part 2

Hi, this is Grandmother Carol (known as Nana), writing to you from Delhi. I’ve been here almost a month and I still can’t believe I’m in India. Here are some of my observations over the past four weeks.

We arrived at Delhi’s very modern airport. After leaving the airport grounds, the scenery changed completely. You see the true India, and the real poverty that is so prevalent. I would say a culture shock.

Shanty dwellings are a common feature. We see tents, boxes, and some live in open fields.

Pigs, dogs, and cows rummage through the piles of garbage and trash all along the road. I would think illness and disease would run rampant.

Many lovely modern buildings and hotels are among all the poverty. You see two different worlds.

Anything on wheels is on the roads plus hundreds of rickshaws (some with motors, some with pedals), motorcycles, women riding side-saddle holding a couple of children, animals of many varieties with all vehicles blowing their horns. New York City grid lock does not compare to this.

We see the most beautiful bright and colorful sarees.

There are countless stores that sell nothing but sarees, many covered with jewels. The more jewels, the greater the expense.

We took turns trying on Kayla’s saree. There’s quite a knack to wrapping it the right way.

One size fits all… but Kayla wears it best.

My family lives in a lovely home in a gated community, Their modern kitchen lacks one big item, an oven. since Indians only cook on top of the stove. Here’s the “EZ-Bake” oven as they like to call it.

All fruits and vegetables have to be washed in a special solution, then in plain clean water, then peeled. It takes awhile to prepare dinner. We can see why most people have cooks.

It was a challenge cooking a turkey for Thanksgiving, but Lynda made it happen. We had a lovely dinner.

She even managed making an apple pie.

It’s fun to see a family of monkeys running through the back yard. They enjoy eating the neighbor’s vegetable garden.

They’re very frisky and scale the wall with ease.

This langur was hired to chase the monkeys, however from what we’ve seen, he’s been ineffective. The monkeys return as soon as he’s off the clock.

Service-oriented businesses are abundant within India’s massive population. The dry cleaner picks up and delivers at the front door. And best of all, “Ironing Man” visits each day. He picks up clean laundry in the morning and returns it perfectly ironed in the evening. He charges 5 Rupees per item (10 cents each).

Special skills are required to drive through the chaotic and hazardous traffic. Sonu is Lynda’s driver, but Pat and I would like to take him home. He drops us to the door where we’re shopping, picks us up and helps carry groceries. What nice service.

Can you guess which shoes are mine, and which are Sonu’s?

Kayla and Greg attend the American Embassy School. It’s an excellent school from K thru 12, and looks like a college campus. They are both happy there and are involved in extra activities. Here they are pictured with next-door-neighbor, and good friend, Nidhi.

Recently we attended a high school concert where Kayla’s dance team performed the Charleston. That’s Kayla front and center.

It’s auspicious wedding season until mid-December. Here’s a horse headed to a wedding where he’ll transport the groom to the venue. 10,000 people were recently married in one weekend in Delhi. A colleague at Tom’s office attended seven weddings that weekend (from 11 invitations).

The currency exchange is about 50 to 1 with the US Dollar. Pat and I are each holding 10,000 Indian Rupees (about $200).

I highly recommend visiting India. I’ll be here through the holidays into mid-January. Thanks to my family for their kindness and generous hospitality.

#44: Grandmother’s perspective, part 1

 

Hi, this is Grandmother Pat (known as Gam), writing to you from India.  We had many adventures during my 3-week visit.  Here are some highlights.

 

The Taj Mahal is very impressive.  It’s constructed of India’s hard, non porous marble, which appears light, delicate almost fairy-like.  It’s been standing for more than 400 years and yet looks as though it was just completed.  It was built by Shah Jehan for his third and most favorite wife who died giving birth to their 14^th child.

 

To protect the marble floors we were required to don paper coverings over our shoes.  The Taj is one of the world’s most popular tourist attractions.  Some signs of wear are beginning to appear and soon some restrictions will have to be made.  Already motor vehicles are limited to reduce pollution.

 

This flower panel was cut from one slab of marble by a skilled artisan. 

 

These flowers were created from tiny pieces of  precious stones, cut then inlaid into the marble with secret Taj glue that is still used today.  After all these years battling all the elements, not one piece has fallen out of place.  Flowers like this adorn each door way.

 

The tombs of Shah Jehan and his wife are purposely placed off center so the light coming through the doorway will shine on his wife’s tomb.  His tomb is larger.

 

The beautiful garden in front of the building represents peace and serenity.

 

There are four minarets all tilted outwardly.  In case of an earthquake they will fall away from the main building.

 

There are two buildings made of red granite and white marble which flank each side of the Taj Mahal.  These are monuments to his two other wives. 

 

Everyone will love this photo (with one exception).

Back in Delhi, Kayla was excited to give us the tour of Modern Bazaar.  This market has most everything you could want including clothing, medicine, lamps, art supplies and food.

 

Also henna tattoos.  Here sits a man with his equipment of several stools and a small bench with his tubes of ink on the walk way.

 

The process is much like icing a cake.  Using a small funnel tube, a thin, orangey-brown solution is applied to the arm and hand according to the design you have selected from his book.

 

Before a wedding, the women of the bridal party gather together to have their hands tattooed.  The mother-in–law often pays for this and the darker the color the more she loves her daughter-in-law.

The price depends on the intricacies of the design and how far up the arm the tattoo is placed.  The process took 10 minutes and cost 200 Rupees ($4 USD) for the front and back of my right hand and wrist.  

 

The ink should dry at least two hours, but more is better, before washing off with water.  As it dries the design begins to appear.  It will last several weeks and this depends on how much the area is washed.

 

At David & Company’s meat market, we saw men seated cross legged in front of very sharp, large curved knife blades. 

 

A fish is held in one hand and with a mere flick of the wrist, the fins are removed. Then the body of the fish is rubbed against the blade to remove the scales.  The thumb is used to remove the innards.  This market seems to have all the fishes from the sea, along with mutton and chicken.  The smell is memorable, but not in a good way.

 

We visited a Hare Krishna Temple.  ISKCON stands for the International Society of Krishna Consciousness.

We first paid to see the story of Hare Krishna.  The presentation resembled an amusement park Hall of Horrors for we were taken into a building with very narrow aisles.  We had to walk single file through complete darkness as we moved from one display to another (photos were not permitted inside). 

The guide at the front with a flash light, which he used sparingly, was of no use to the last person. The 10 or more displays depicted reincarnation, good over evil and the spread of Hare Krishna over the world by elaborate lighting effects and flashing red lights.

 

To enter the main temple we had to remove our shoes and walk bare footed over polished marble floors. 

 

Inside the temple, we found people sitting cross legged on carpeting or laying prostrate in prayer. 

 

There were several alters.  In front of the main alter, priests received flowers and food to be blessed.  At one point a metal cone was placed on the head of worshipers.  Some found this most relaxing.

 

We enjoyed this religious exposure, but were not converted.

 

Last Saturday, we ventured to Old Delhi.  The traffic jam on the way there was endless with vehicles of all types jockeying for position.  It took three hours to travel 34 kilometers (21 miles).  

 

Along the way, we saw a frequent sight… men using the side of the road as their urinal. 

We passed India Gate, the icon of Delhi, built in 1931 to commemorate Indians who fought and died during World War I.

 

Masses of humanity comprise Old Delhi, all competing for survival. The area is teaming with people, swarming like a bee hive, with diverse religions working side by side.  One wonders how they survive with  so many shops showing the same items.

 

Traffic is so thick that rickshaws are the most practical way to get around pedestrians, motor bikes, cars, push carts and men and women carrying heavy loads on their heads.

 

We saw Muslim women with heads and faces covered in black burkas riding in rickshaws.

 

All ages of people used all types of transportation.

 

The streets are narrow and bumpy and difficult to navigate so at times it was necessary for our driver to get out and push us. 

Gregory had a great time sitting in the back. 

 

Mixed in with the traffic were men unloading large sacks of spices in the street.

 

We walked up spice alley where we saw nuts, dried fruits and many hot spices with pungent fumes that set us coughing and sneezing.  This is the largest spice market in Asia.

Special thanks to Kayla and Gregory for assisting us, navigating the rough pavements, climbing the steps and aiding our overall journey.  Also, we thank Tom and Lynda for all their efforts to show us India and Nepal.  Lynda was an exceptional tour guide who organized our travels and introduced us to many local markets.

 

I thoroughly enjoyed my experience in India.  I departed Delhi Thursday morning, and as you read this, I’m already at home again in Pennsylvania.  Grandmother Carol stays on until January, and will share her perspective next week.  Gam.

.

#43: The next life

This is a story of life, death, and rebirth of the soul.  This week’s blog exclusively explores Hindu cremations at the holy Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu.  If you have a queasy stomach, stop now. 

 

We visited the temple, situated along the banks of the sacred Bagmati River, on an auspicious and sunny Saturday morning

 

Hundreds of onlookers spent hours watching the events.

 

Dozens of monkeys scampered across the roof tops with ease.

 

We were apprehensive at first and initially decided to view the site from a distance.  Most of our group stayed back, but two of us moved closer. 

 

Our vantage point was on the opposite side of the river from the dozen funeral pyres.  We watched in awe the rituals taking place on the other side.

 

According to Hindu beliefs, the soul is wrapped in a material body.  The soul is eternal with no beginning or end.  It moves from one physical element to another (it can be human, plant, animal or spiritual).

 

Movement of the soul is dependent on Karma. Every action, good or bad, has a consequence.  Your behavior leads to reward or punishment, consistent with your actions. In essence, what comes around goes around.

 

These actions cannot be fully realized during a lifetime (as we know it), thus, the soul is repeatedly reborn. Liberation of the cycle is possible once the desire for all worldly possessions ceases.

 

Family members circle the pyre several times with the body to show respect.  The man upfront is blowing a conch shell to purify the soul and eliminate negative energy.

 

Another man carries a flame which is placed on the deceased’s mouth for purification. . 

 

Additional flame is added at the base.

 

The body is then covered with moistened straw to intensify the heat.

 

Each body takes 4 – 6 hours to burn. 

 

The ashes are collected and the remaining coals are brushed into the river with a bamboo pole.

 

The platform is rinsed with river water and reset for the next ceremony.

 

The next two photos require explanation, which I don’t have. In this photo, family members are washing the feet of the deceased in the holy river.  Now, look at the next photo, which was taken only seconds apart.

 

 

Here are the two photos side-by-side. 

 

The sense of tradition and respect with the cremation ritual was awe-inspiring. Family members are completely at peace with the transmigration of the soul.  ts