2014 – 04: Delays

 

We had two major sources of delay this week, one political, one environmental. The first was caused by protesters, led by Delhi’s new Chief Minister. They staged a sit-in, right in the middle of Delhi’s busiest streets (Internet photos).

 

The minister leads the new political party AAP which only formed a year ago.  Arvind Kejriwal, caught incumbent politicians by surprise at the polls last month with substantial support on a platform of anti-corruption.

 

He took office January 1, and this week aimed critical remarks at the Delhi police, who are directed by the central government.  He wants reporting shifted to his domain. The sit-in snarled traffic and closed several metro rail stations.

 

The next source of delay is airborne.  Locals call it fog, Americans say smog, while media uses the reference “air pollution.”  By any name, it’s thick.

 

This is Delhi’s airport runway.  In this photo, we can barely see the landing lights from this short distance.  Imagine a pilot searching for these lights from the air.

 

A countless number of planes (and trains) are either delayed or cancelled. 

 

The runway is just behind the planes you see here.  Luckily, with only a 15 minute delay, my flight was off to Mumbai.

 

On my return flight to Delhi, the pilot mentioned 50 meter visibility (about half a football field).

 

Here’s a photo from last week’s blog of my office complex, Cyber City.

 

And here’s that exact same angle one week later.  The buildings have become “invisible.” 

 

Here’s the side-by-side comparison. The air has “cut-it-with-a-knife” thickness. 

 

We live in a construction zone, which is a significant contributor to smog.

 

Emerging markets such as India are known for infrastructure projects, which we find at nearly every turn.

 

Here’s how traffic looks during our daily commute.

 

A green movement is afoot to help address air pollution.  Here’s a clever application: this concrete drainage pipe has been converted into a planter. 

 

Recent rain showers momentarily cleared the air last week.  It was quite surprising and delightful to see a bit of sunshine and blue skies (you’ll have to take my word… I missed the click).

 

Here’s an unfortunate distinction from last week’s newspaper.

 

Here’s a photo from Beijing submitted by a loyal blog reader and former resident of China.   To deflect citizen’s smog unhappiness, LED screens are used to create virtual sunlight. 

 

As a kid growing up, I remember pollution as front page news. Scenes like this led to tight government regulations.  I remember learning the term “air scrubbers.” 

 

But manufacturing along with environmental protection is costly, which only accelerates U.S. production moving overseas where concern for the environment is lax or non-existent. (Internet photo of Jiamusi, China).

As consumerism rises in the west, so does pollution in the east. Reports now show that China’s smog reaches the U.S. west coast.

 

Switching gears, Sunday is Republic Day in India which celebrates the birth of India’s constitution.  Children are moving through traffic selling flags to capitalize on nationalistic pride. 

Don’t miss next week’s blog where you’ll learn about a project that was a year in the making.  Enjoy.  ts

2014 – 03: Keeping warm + Diplomatic row

Cold temperatures have descended upon us…

 

…both outside and in.  Indian homes are cold.  They are built of brick and concrete, and without central heating nor insulation. Windows are single-pane glass.  We’ve found the temperature inside to be about 2 degree COLDER than outside.  Portable electric heaters provide little value.  We wear multiple layers.

 

This is also smog season. 

 

Smog is caused by a variety of reasons including exhaust fumes from Delhi’s 7.2 million vehicles, construction dust, soot from the mass-burning of agricultural waste in neighboring states and factory emissions.  Additionally, landlocked Delhi lacks a coastal breeze.  This photo was taken at 8:30 am.  The sun is trying to break through.

 

“Homemade” fires are another smog contributor.  Fires for warmth are everywhere. 

 

Any burnable substance is a source of fuel, including plastic and garbage. The smell of smoke permeates the air 24/7.

 

Here’s the air pollution index.  Any score of 300 and above is considered hazardous.

 

Here’s a recent reading at 362 (I’ve seen it as high as 575).  We routinely receive messages from school that outside gym and sports activities have been cancelled.  The school uses a 350 threshold for decision making.

 

On the positive side, Polio has been eradicated in India.  Monday marked the 3-year anniversary since the last reported case.  Behind Bill Gates’ philanthropic efforts, 170 million Indian children are immunized each year.

 

Here’s a young “Gam” from the 1950’s when she worked with Dr. Jonas Salk at the University of Pittsburgh in the development of the Polio vaccine. 

 

Here she is in a PR photo for the American Red Cross when she traveled to Polio hot spots including Greensboro, Salt Lake City and Indianapolis.  Ask Gam about her Polio days and the “iron lung.”  She still remembers each patient.

 

In other big news, we are in the midst of an international dispute which began last year and boiled over in January.  An Indian maid working in the U.S., who made accusations she was overworked and underpaid, brought the world’s two largest democracies to loggerheads.  This row is making front page news on two continents.  Note: this photo is of the accused.

 

The maid’s employer, an Indian diplomat, was arrested in New York City December 12 and charged with violating U.S. labor laws and visa fraud.  She was strip-searched and jailed before being released on bail. 

 

She rejected a plea bargain, acquired diplomatic immunity and immediately returned to India (here she is being mobbed by media at the Delhi airport).  Meanwhile, her husband and two children (who are American citizens) remain in New York.  She cannot return to the U.S. without facing arrest. 

 

Retaliatory moves were made against U.S. diplomats here in Delhi.  Special privileges were rescinded, cement barricades were removed from the embassy perimeter, and, an American diplomat was sent home, tit-for-tat.

 

U.S. / Indian relations further deteriorated this week when the NY Times ran a story about the American Embassy School, questioning the tax and visa status of teachers.  India media is providing extensive coverage.

 

Clearly, the strip search of the diplomat enflamed Indians.  This incident is not merely about one individual as she represents all of India.  National pride was insulted. This issue is now being discussed at the highest levels of the State Department in Washington D.C.  We’re hopeful diplomatic means will be successful in defusing the tension. ts

2014 – 02: Welcoming the new year.

 

We’re back in Delhi where it’s smog season, created by fires for warmth due to cold temperatures.  More on that next week.

 

But first, here’s a continuation from last week’s blog with a recap of new years.  After Christmas, we said goodbye to 6 of our group in Munich. Nana stayed behind with the Indian clan for a trip to Paris in honor of her 80^th birthday.  We traveled west via train and enjoyed the French countryside along the way.

 

If the train had wings, we would have been airborne (317 km/hr is nearly 200 mph).

 

This was Nana’s first visit to Paris, which was cold and rainy, but we forged ahead to see the major sights, including Notre Dame Cathedral (Our Lady of Paris).

 

Kayla can tell you all about the flying buttresses, which are arched exterior supports.

 

Of course, the Eiffel Tower is the definitive Paris icon and will celebrate its 125^th anniversary this March. 

 

For more than four decades, this iron lattice landmark was the tallest building in the world (later surpassed by the Chrysler building in New York in 1930).

 

7 million people visit the tower each year.  We know.  Greg and I stood in line with many of them.  We arrived early to beat the crowds, which reduced our waiting time to 2 ½ hours… just to reach the elevator base.  From there, it was another hour to the top.

 

But the vantage point from above provides a wonderful 360 degree view of Paris.

 

The Arc de Triomphe honors those who fought and died for France during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars.  Commissioned by Napoleon at the height of his rule in 1806 after his decisive victory at Austerlitz, the Arch required 3 decades of start / stop / start again construction for completion.

 

Of course, Paris is home to Louis Vuitton.  This is their flagship store on the Champs-Élysées.

 

And here’s the 20 minute cue to get inside.  I was stunned.  The negative economic news we read was not evident.  People were shopping AND buying.

 

Sacré-Cœur, a Roman Catholic church, was completed in 1914 after nearly 40 years of construction. It was later consecrated after World War I in 1919. Note the white dome in the background.

 

The Sacré-Cœur / Montmartre area is a popular locale for artists who display their works, regardless of the weather.

 

On December 31, Lynda and I reached the Eiffel Tower via foot just prior to midnight.  The large crowd was very happy and festive. Many had Champaign bottles.

 

Then at midnight, flashing strobe lights on the tower signaled the new year.  Happy 2014.

Nana’s back in the U.S., where it’s bitterly cold, and we’re back in Delhi where it’s merely cold. Look for that story next week. ts

2014 – 01: Christmas in Kitzbühel

For Christians, Christmas is the “Diwali of holidays.”  The religious aspects have completely different roots, however, it’s the most significant holiday of the year where family comes together. 

 

That’s a challenge for us being on the other side of the planet, so Munich was selected as the halfway meeting point.  

 

We arrived first.  Look at joy as we arrived at the airport.  Munich is magical for us.

 

Dave flew from Los Angeles to Philadelphia where he connected with the Pennsylvanian’s for the flight to Munich.  The Indian clan was there to greet them.

 

This journey included Gam (age 90), Grandpa (88) and Nana (80).  More about Nana’s age in a minute.

 

Without any concern for jet lag, we jumped head-first into Munich’s charm to maximize our time. This is the Chinesischer Turm in Englischergarten.

 

The Glockenspiel is a Munich icon.

 

During the Glockenspiel performance, which re-enacts a 1568 wedding, the Bavarian knight defeats the Austrian knight every time.

 

The Frauenkirche, built over 20 years and completed in 1488, is another iconic symbol of Munich which is absolutely stunning both outside…

 

…and in. We listened as the orchestra rehearsed for their Christmas performance. No amplification was required as the acoustics were perfect.

Along the way, we saw a BMW electric-powered i3. 

 

This BMW employee was on his way to Stuttgart and back with a range extender (400 km round trip).

 

Greg was fascinated by this BMW C1, which is now a collector’s item.

 

Of course, no trip to Munich is complete without a visit to the Hofbraühaus…

 

… and a pose with a Brezel saleswoman. 

 

This was a monumental trip for Nana… she arrived on her 80^th birthday. 

 

We celebrated in style, which included a sparkling Apfelstrudel.

 

After 24 hours of absorbing Munich’s Christmas-time spirit…

 

… we boarded a train for Kitzbühel, Austria.

 

We strategically mastered the task of getting 11 people (and luggage) on and off the trains within the allotted time for the stop.  As you can see, the pleas for “travel light” were largely ignored.

 

Deep in the Alps, Kitzbühel is absolutely charming…

 

…which is especially rich during Christmas.

 

Kitzbühel is known for skiing, which we did.

 

Ski hats serve two purposes:  function and fashion.  Now with my new hat, Kayla is the lucky recipient of my hand-me-down I’ve had since childhood.  Somehow, that hat has followed me across 50 states and 3 continents.

 

Non-skiers enjoyed the breathtaking views.

 

The mountains are stunning.

 

The snow was man-made, but with the shining sun, conditions were ideal.

 

BMW sponsors the mountain, however, we noticed that Mercedes sponsors the ski school. This message reads:  For driving in blue (weather).

 

Churches dominate the Kitzbühel skyline.

 

We attended the 11:00 pm Christmas Eve service.  We found the church surrounded by a graveyard, with candles lighting all tombstones.

 

Fortunately, we arrived early as the church later filled beyond capacity to standing-room-only.  Everyone wore winter hats, gloves and coats as there was no heat inside.  The service included the church choir and full orchestra.  This was a Christmas experience like none other.

 

The next morning, we were delighted to see that Santa Claus found us in Kitzbühel.

 

Our “meet in the middle” strategy worked, bringing all 11 of us together for Christmas. Thanks to Gam for the matching t-shirts.  Look for part 2 of our European adventures next week. We hope you had a great holiday.

PS: This is a milestone blog — post #100 — since starting in February 2012.  ts