2013 – 29: Home again

My family returned from the U.S. Monday evening after a very efficient trip which jammed a year’s worth of activities into a few weeks.

 

Kayla successfully completed driver’s school and received her permit (something she won’t be using here in India).  Her next opportunity to practice driving will be next summer.

 

Greg lost 4 teeth while in the U.S.  Added to Kayla’s wisdom teeth surgery, our household now has 8 fewer teeth.

 

Many people asked me about the 23 children who died and dozens more hospitalized from poisoned school lunches in Bihar.  The Midday Meal Scheme is the world’s largest and serves free daily lunches to 120 million pupils throughout India.  The suspected culprit is cooking oil that was stored in a barrel previously used for insecticide.

 

Low quality food has sickened children in the past, but this is clearly a severe case, which has now turned political.  A prominent politician is claiming intentional poisoning to embarrass him. 

 

Across the border in Pakistan, a polio eradication program has been hitting resistance from the populace with vaccinators being killed under the guise of a “western plot.”  Globally, polio only remains in three countries: Afghanistan, Nigeria and Pakistan.  Despite the setbacks, Pakistan is motivated by India’s successful polio eradication two years ago.  The competition between the two countries is fierce on any and all matters.

 

Back in India, we can tell you “The Big Bang Theory” TV show is very popular here.

 

We especially enjoy the Raj Koothrapali character.  The cultural references to India are spot-on. 

 

We laugh out loud when he Skypes his parents in New Delhi.  They are continually pressuring him to marry an Indian girl.

 

For several episodes, his sister Priya dates Leonard. 

 

She shields the relationship from her parents as he’s “a forbidden piece of white chocolate.”

 

On the roads of India, a Z4 Roadster is a rare sight and truly stands out in traffic.

 

On the opposite end, the Suzuki Swift is one of the most popular cars in India (typically in white). In an effort to make the car appear more upscale, blatant styling cues were taken from BMW including the C-pillar kink and the “Bangle-butt” trunk lid.

 

But here’s the best part.  The car is named “Dzire.”  I don’t  know anyone who truly “desires” a Swift.  This is clearing marketing hype at its worst.

 

How does a pig cross the road?

 

In this case, he didn’t.  He gave up trying to find a break in the traffic and decided to go with the flow.

 

Hauling firewood for cooking fuel is common, but I’ve never seen so much on one head before.  This photo was taken one block from our home.

 

Kayla quickly reconnected with Nidhi this week, and along with her friend who was visiting from the U.S., they opted for henna tattoos. 

 

Here, the ink is still wet and soaking into the skin.

 

And this is the end result, which will last about a month

 

In stopping for fuel this week, I was surprised to see this pedi-rickshaw hauling 2 huge tanks of gasoline. 

 

I certainly hope he made it to his destination safely.

 

Immediately after the pedi-rickshaw departed, the next customer pulled in. 

 

Greg and I tried something new on Saturday.  We made a rickshaw run to see if McDonald’s serves breakfast in India. 

 

Auto rickshaws are the perfect way to experience India. 

 

Our driver stopped along the way to fill his water bottle…

 

…and then took a “shortcut” which put us head-first into traffic.

 

Had we screamed “You’re going the wrong way!” – it would have had no impact since this is a common occurrence.  The rules of the road are very loose and open to interpretation by all.

 

We waited outside until 8:00 am for the McDonald’s to open (everything starts later in India).  Here they’re promoting new products, and in this case, market-specific. 

 

Along with the standard Egg McMuffin, they serve a vegetarian version.

 

Here are veg and non-veg options.  When it comes to successful food introductions, “hot and spicy” are requirements in India.

 

Here are the key ingredients to McSpicy Paneer.  Red chili peppers, cottage cheese and lettuce.

 

Sunday was Kayla’s 17^th birthday.  We celebrated with brunch, gifts…

 

… and a homemade cake.  Enjoy your week. ts

2013 – 28: The real Delhi, part 2

 

First, here’s what I had for dinner last week along with my recipe for chicken and rice:

-Boil chicken breast.

-Boil rice.

-Heat can of chicken cream soup.

-Place chicken breast on bed of rice, cover with cream soup.  Salt and pepper.

-Serve with an ice cold glass of water (with homemade ice cubes using bottled water).

 

Now back to Old Delhi where the camera only captures the sense of sight (a personal visit is required to experience the remaining four senses).

 

Delhi’s history spans some 5000 years, but it wasn’t until 1639 when Mughal Emperor Shahjahan founded the walled city of Shahjahanabad, known today as Old Delhi.  The city is overflowing with diverse residents and teeming with abundant free trade.

Here’s the spice market which migrant workers call home for several months a year.

 

Meals consist of some vegetables and roti bread cooked on open flame using sticks.

 

Laborers make 250 Rupees per day hauling heavy bags of chili peppers and other spices (that’s less than $5 dollars per day).

 

But TV is essential.  I’ve seen satellite dishes in the poorest of neighborhoods.

 

Somehow, the infrastructure supports the population.

 

On the streets, children play freely…

 

…while this girl takes a Sunday ride with her father.

 

This scooter nicked me as it zoomed by, but with the immense population density, every millimeter is precious.

 

Goats, goats, and more goats.  They are everywhere (more on that later).

 

This man is selling fire wood to be used for cooking…

 

… this man puts his scooter to work delivering eggs…

 

… while this bakery is preparing fresh bread.

 

Oh the wires.  Have I mentioned the wires?

 

Some men cool off with a refreshing shower…

 

…while others sleep through the heat of the day.

 

The name “palace” conjures a certain image in the mind.

 

I didn’t explore any further, but I suspect this is a case of marketing hype.

 

Old Delhi is filled with diversity, including a heavy Muslim population. 

 

This shop offers the tradition burka (note, the women on the left and right are actually mannequins). 

 

A turn down a narrow alley leads to a surprising find, a colorful mosque.

 

What follows is the source of dinner.

 

Fresh fish is available and trimmed to order.

 

Goat meat is plentiful and fresh…

 

…very fresh.

 

The next 3 photos work in unison.  Here’s the wide shot showing this man’s nearly empty basket of chickens and his “butcher shop.”

 

Squatting next to his blanket on the street, he easily utilizes his cleaver and chopping block…

 

…and then fills the bag for his customer.

 

Next to him, these women kneel down to negotiate with his competitor…

 

…who also chops to order.

 

This man is more sophisticated with a table.  His chickens are cued up.

 

For the next steps in the process, I have omitted two photos for sensitivity (if there’s any left).  Here he quickly removes the unneeded parts…

 

…and discards them on the ground.

 

I’ll stop now and conclude this tour of Old Delhi.  It’s a sensory overload which must truly be experienced to fully grasp daily life.  Enjoy your week.  ts

2013 – 27: The real Delhi, part 1

First, more photos from the U.S., including these “Amish girls.”

 

A trip to Hershey Park is always a lot of fun.

 

Lynda spent a night out with the “E-town girls.”  Have we really been out of college 32 years? 

 

Back in Delhi, it’s very hot and muggy (humid) now that monsoon season has arrived.  The rainy forecast is consistent all week (34° C is 92° F).

 

Dark clouds threaten the inevitable.

 

The rain hits hard at a 45° angle…

 

…but then the skies turn blue and the sun shines.

 

It’s been awhile since I’ve visited Old Delhi, so I jumped aboard the 5:45 am Metro train out of Huda City on Sunday…

 

… and reached Delhi in time for a bicycle tour. 

 

At 7:00 am, Old Delhi is already buzzing with activity.  The narrow streets are crowded, and at this moment, blocked.

 

Men are hard at work…

 

…as is this Ox.

 

Not quite everyone is ready to start the day.

 

A young German woman on our tour caught the attention of the locals for her white skin and blonde hair.

 

Jama Mosque dominates the skyline.

 

Old Delhi is known for its religious diversity as exhibited by the five different religions found here in Chandni Chowk including Muslim, Sikh, Christian (Baptist), Hindu and Buddhist.

 

All the services one needs are found in Old Delhi.  The local pharmacy is open…

 

…however this dentist is closed for the day.

 

This store offers a wide variety of items, but don’t be misled by the sign.  I didn’t see any computers.

 

Here’s a local tailor.  Note the foot-powered sewing machine.

 

Fresh vegetables are plentiful…

 

… the fast food is hot and fresh…

 

…and corn on the cob is cooked directly on the coals.

 

This store has a variety of household needs…

 

…including this unique brand which is strangely familiar, yet different.

 

 I like the name of this school…

 

…which sits next to this barbershop.

 

But of course, who needs a fancy salon?  Haircuts are available on the sidewalks of Old Delhi.

 

Have you ever wondered what happens to t-shirt printing overruns?  After nearly a decade, no one has purchased this shirt.

 

Wires abound…

 

…and serve the dual purpose as a laundry line.

 

If you’re looking for a car door, this man offers a wide variety.

 

Look for part 2 of the real Delhi next week (vegetarians, be forewarned).  Have a great week.  ts

2013 – 26: 4th of July

 

First, here’s a look at headlines making news in Asia. Early monsoon rains, the heaviest in 80 years, inundated the Indian state of Uttarakhand in June.  This remote Himalayan region is wedged between China and Nepal.

 

The numbers are staggering.  800 dead and anywhere from 3,000 – 11,000 missing. 

 

More than 100,000 have been evacuated, primarily by helicopter.

 

This now iconic image captures the flood’s rage.  However, defying nature and showing his resolve, Shiva, the supreme God, is still standing.

 

We are collecting funds at our office in support. 

 

Across the border to the northwest, British Prime Minister David Cameron was in Pakistan to “stand together” against terrorism.   However, nearly 50 people were killed in three separate bombings in advance of his visit.

 

Jumping to the U.S., guess who just had all 4 wisdom teeth removed this week?

 

The 4^th of July is a major American holiday which celebrates our Declaration of Independence from British rule in 1776.  Festivities there included hamburgers on the grill, and fresh corn on the cob.

 

A confetti cannon was fired in celebration with red, white and blue results. 

 

My family engaged me via Skype. 

 

Back in Delhi, it’s midnight here and I still can’t get re-adjusted to Indian time (this is a 24 hour clock). 

 

I celebrated the 4^th of July with chicken and rice.  We exclusively use premium Kohinoor basmati rice at our house.  It’s the best.

 

We’re also pretty good at keeping the Maggi noodle company in business.

 

Keep in mind the 4^th of July is a “U.S. only” holiday and is a regular work day elsewhere in the world.  I was at the office in suit and tie on Thursday (we’re on the 14^th floor of this building).

 

On the 4th of July here in India, Autorickshaws were busy with daily commuters…

 

…while this tractor negotiated through CyberCity traffic.

 

Dealerships were open for business selling cars…

 

… and children were getting to school on time.

 

Mosquitoes were meeting their fate.

 

(I hope it’s just the mosquitoes).

 

Security guards were on duty (they work 12-hour shifts)…   

 

… as was the langur in search of monkeys.

 

He doesn’t really work per se.  His presence is effective enough.

 

However, this monkey was unalarmed.  He knows the langur’s schedule. 

 

But the one thing India has in common with America’s 4^th of July is heat and humidity.  I’m not sure if this woman is receiving any relief, but at a minimum, it’s a fashion statement.  Enjoy your week.  ts